Paddling the Porcupine River: Alaska & Yukon

A recollection of Wilderness Inquiry’s recent 15-day trip to Alaska’s Porcupine River from Alex Sitek:

In the hidden town of Old Crow, Yukon Territory, six men and two Wilderness Inquiry guides welcomed the morning sun as it warmed their skin after an Arctic night on the banks of the Porcupine River. This was the point of no return – no civilization would be found until the group reached the end of their journey in Fort Yukon, nearly 300 miles downstream. It was time to embark on a journey full of unknown adventure.

It was quickly evident how vast and remote the area traveled would be as the first few days were spent paddling down a winding stretch of river surrounded by open tundra that stretched as far as the eye could see. Further down river the landscape changed into an area known as the Ramparts. For 100 miles, thousand-foot cliffs grew along the riverbanks until they towered above the team. With a heavy current to push the canoes along, the men let the river pick the fastest route and tucked away their paddles, taking in the natural beauty of the remote wilderness with which they were surrounded.

After a brief crossing into Canadian territory marked only by an abandoned village, the group entered the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR). Slowed down by a late fuel drop, the eight found themselves behind schedule and facing a powerful headwind as they paddled forty miles through towering walls of the Ramparts and into the Yukon Flats – an area named for its lack of topography and crawling river. In the flats, where an abundance of wildlife thrives, the men were greeted by an array of flora and fauna.

Despite the coolness of the night, the sun never sunk below the horizon in the Arctic Circle. The team would stay up around the campfire, telling stories and feasting on fresh-caught shee fish. When Fort Yukon appeared on the banks of the Porcupine, gear was packed up one last time before the final departure. Sleeping on the runway at the small airport, surrounded by the sounds of bush planes landing and taking off, the men enjoyed their last night around the fire while a Yukon native played guitar and told stories of his native area.